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I have done 100s of feet of glue on edge banding with the following three tools. These work well for Melamine, finished and unfinished wood.The thing you have to remember when trimming wood edge banding is that you are planing wood and you always trim/plane grain down hill.You have to read the grain before trimming. Sometimes you can trim both sides in the same direction, sometimes trim each side in different directions and then some times you have to change directions on each side.I found I got the best results with two passes, first pass removes most of the waste with the second pass removing the rest of the wood and glue squeeze out.After trimming one or two passes with the sander leaves a slight bevel which helps prevent lifting the banding. If you are spraying a finish the bevel allows the finish to flow and seal better. I put a slight bevel on the ends with a 150 grit sanding block after trimming it with the Guillotine trimmer. Plan on trowing away some banding. I cut around the joints in the banding and any sections with gnarly grain. Here again two cuts gives a better result that one.When ironing the banding on I use a clothing iron set at its max temp. I heat up the panel edge first with the iron. The warm panel edge will kinda grab the banding glue. Then I heat the entire strip moving the iron back and forth until the wood is hot to the touch. Then I run a small diameter rod at an angle flat on the edge back and forth on the banding until the glue sets. I use my scrapper burnisher for this but a large round screw driver will also work. I wait till the glue has cooled to trim the the banding. That way 99% of the glue will come off with the rimming.I will not use the Sanur banding I get mine from Edgeco. I think their glue is better.Fastcap pro double bidirectional sided squeeze adjustable width. I bought the yellow thing Klingspoor sells or used to sell and threw it away.Fastcap edge band sander. Sanding a slight bevel will ease finishing and help prevent lifting of the banding.Guillotine trimer for ends. I got this one from Amazion.
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Recommended article:I have used a good quality bastard file, it must have a tooth on one edge. Other than using the OF 700 this is the fastest and easiest way to get a good edge particularly with wood veneer edge banding.
Technique is important. Much easier to show in a video than to describe, but essentially I just position the file at a 5-10 degree angle to the substrate and use a cutting motion forward (never back) to remove the excess banding. If you cut on a the back stroke it will sometimes pull the edging off or splinter into the just edged side.
I always wait till the glue has fully cooled off before I trim my banding so as not to spread any squeeze out it all over the surface. I go over the just ironed tape with a small block of hard maple applying pressure and kind of roll the edges slightly to make sure there is proper adhesion.
I have used chisels, Vertex, razor blades, and Olfa knife with the blade extended and none of them work as well, cleanly and as fast as a file particularly on veneered wood. I finish up with 220 sand paper on a block or wood on a 10 or 15 degree angle to the substrate and then spray a bit of lacquer or clear finish on the exposed edge. I use a razor and carefully remove any glue, but usually I don't get any on the surface or it gets removed with the file.
Hope that helps. Only practice makes you better, but it's worth it.
Tim
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