How to choose, use pears in your cooking

Becky Krystal The Washington Post

If you want to learn more, please visit our website Guowang.

It's been a couple of weeks since I had my last farmers market peach, and the transition always feels like a bit of a bummer. But my disappointment is lessened knowing pear season is ramping up. While buying any type of pears I could get my hands on for the photo above, I sampled my first Seckel pears of the year. Bliss! Peach who?

As fantastic as pears can be, they sometimes play second fiddle to their relations, apples. Why?

"Pears are difficult," says Emily Zaas, who runs Maryland's Black Rock Orchard with her husband, David Hochheimer, "but they are so enjoyable because of the variety." They're hard to grow, which for buyers can mean less access, or access to fewer varieties. Moreover, once you buy them, it takes a little more effort to figure out when they're ready to eat.

Don't let uncertainty stop you from loving on this quintessential fall fruit. Here's what you need to know:

Buying. Pears come in a variety of colors and gradients, which don't really tell you much beyond what type they are. The colors don't indicate what's going on inside, other than the Bartlett, which I'll get to below. Purchase pears that are fragrant and free of cuts or other blemishes that might cause them to rot. Russeting, or brown rough patches, is perfectly normal and fine to eat. Pear season runs from late summer into December or January, although they're typically available year-round at supermarkets.

Ripening. In "Jane Grigson's Fruit Book," the author gives a sobering assessment: "A ripe pear gives very slightly round the stem, but should be in no way squashy. All this provides problems for the shopkeeper and supplier. The result is that most people have never eaten a decent pear in their lives." Jane does not suffer fools! Even if you don't subscribe to that brand of bluntness, it is true that getting a perfectly ripe pear requires some know-how. USA Pears, a website run by a group representing growers in the Northwest, says pears are one of the few types of fruits that don't ripen on the tree. (Asian pears, however, do ripen on the tree.) That, in combination with the fact that riper pears are easily damaged, means many of the pears you find at the grocery store are not quite ready to be eaten. For more same- or next-day satisfaction, farmers market pears are a safer bet. They're also where you may come across less common varieties.

But how to ensure your pear is ripe? Give it the old squeeze test, applying gentle pressure to the neck with your thumb. The pear is ready if it yields there; firm Boscs and Concordes won't give quite as much as other types. USA Pears notes that pears ripen from the inside out, and the neck is closest to the center. If you checked the fatter part of the pear, by the time it was soft, the inside would be overripe. If you have Bartletts with green skin, they will lighten to yellow as they ripen.

Once your pears have ripened at room temperature, store them in the refrigerator. At that point, Zaas says, they can last as long as a few weeks. You can also store unripe pears in the refrigerator and then bring them back out when you're ready to ripen them.

Prepping. There's not a whole lot that's complicated here. As with all fruit, wash and scrub under cold, running water and then dry. If you're peeling, you can use a paring knife, but a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler is good for removing a thinner layer, says Rolce Payne in "Cooking With Fruit." She suggests going down the pear from stem to blossom end. To core, a dedicated corer can do the trick; so can a melon baller. When you want to halve and stuff pears, Payne says to scoop them out with the small end of a melon baller, a small knife or a teaspoon. Pears are prone to browning once cut, but water mixed with some lemon juice can help stave off discoloration.

Varieties

Here's a rundown on flavor and appearance of some of the most common varieties as described by USA Pears, unless otherwise noted.

Anjou: "Refreshingly sweet and juicy with a hint of citrus." Egg-shaped and bright green, sometimes with a red blush. Other than color, red and green Anjou are basically interchangeable, although Saveur says the red are sweeter with less pronounced citrus undertones.

Asian: "The Asian pear could be the love child between a pear and jicama with some melon thrown in. Its flesh is cool, crisp, juicy and firm, with diverse notes," is how food writer David Hagedorn described them in The Post. Zaas finds them quite sweet, too. There are many varieties, but most of what you'll come across here are round like apples and speckled, with a color that can range from olive to pale yellow.

Bartlett: "Signature pear flavor with abundant juice." Most traditional pear shape with rounded bottom and distinct neck. Green and red are similar, though, again, Saveur says red are smoother and sweeter.

Bosc: "Crisp and woodsy with a honey sweetness." Brown with russeting on all or some of the skin, with a fully round bottom that gradually tapers into a narrow neck.

Comice: "Succulent, buttery and exceptionally sweet." Round with a squat neck, mostly green with some red. Often found in fruit boxes sent to you by doting aunts.

Concorde: "Crunchy and earthy with a hint of vanilla." Yellow-green with a pointed top that expands into a round bottom.

Forelle: "Crisp, tangy and refreshingly sweet." Bell-shaped, a little bigger than Seckel, green and red with red freckles.

Seckel: "Bite-sized, crunchy and ultra-sweet." Chubby and round with a small neck, a mix of olive green and maroon skin. My favorite; I pop them like candy.

Starkrimson: "Aromatic, moist and sweet with a floral essence." Bright red with a shape similar to Bartlett.

Which to use where

Texture is a primary factor in choosing pears for cooking. Mostly that comes down to whether the pear is firm or soft, which can be driven by the variety or the degree of ripeness.

Seckel and Bosc pears are firmer and can hold their shape, Zaas says. Whole or halved Seckels are spectacular baked into the top of a cake, and Bake From Scratch magazine recently used the shape and texture of Boscs to advantage by fanning out partially sliced whole fruit in a mesmerizing galette. The magazine also recommends Anjou as an all-purpose variety that can stand up to high temperatures, so consider them in pies and tarts.

Firmer pears - Bosc, Anjou - or less ripe specimens of the softer types are great for poaching, such as in a spiced wine mixture. They can work for slaws, grilling and sauteing, too, according to USA Pears. Pears in salads are a prime fall attraction as well. Don't forget about Asian pears in the firm and crisp category, either, although they don't cook well.

Bartletts break down very well, making them an ideal candidate for sauce, jam or butter. Anything that's very soft or juicy can, of course, be eaten out of hand, as well as incorporated into soups or smoothies or spooned on top of yogurt and oatmeal.

If you want to do a simple taste test of cooked pears, Zaas recommends cutting several varieties into quarters and roasting them with a little butter. You should be able to notice their distinct flavors and textures. Similarly, try halving and coring them and filling with your choice of sweet or savory filling.

Pairing. Pears lean mild and sweet, meaning they're a perfect foil for stronger flavors. Payne suggests pairing pears with cranberries. She also recommends adding them to thicken and flavor a spinach soup, as well as dressing pears with a lemon vinaigrette that does double duty in terms of taste and keeping the fruit from browning. Another option if you like punchy is to pickle pears. Warm spices are an ideal partner, too, whether it's cinnamon, cardamom or ginger. And dark chocolate? Yes, please.

Zaas recommends you build a cheese board that includes pears (try fresh and dried) alongside nuts. I'd start with blue cheese, goat cheese and brie.

If your theory is more like-with-like, pears go very well with their apple cousins. Almonds, with a similar mellow, floral fragrance, are always a safe bet, too.

FACTORS USED IN THE COMPARISON

First, the ten pear varieties compared are in alphabetic order not order of preference. It is almost impossible to recommend a particular variety from the ten described below because each person will have different needs and garden situations.

There are many heritage varieties available which are not mentioned in the list below and the reason is their poor disease resistance. In their day they may well have been grown with minimal problems but pests and diseases, especially, have evolved over time to make older varieties a prime target. For those who prefer an ornamental pear tree, we would recommend Pyrus Pashia.

POLLINATION BETWEEN VARIETIES OF PEAR TREES

One of the key factors when buying a pear tree is pollination. Only a few pear trees are reliably self-fertile, several are partially self-fertile and the majority as self-sterile. For a self-sterile pear tree, it is absolutely essential to have a compatible pear tree of another variety nearby if pollination (and therefore fruit production) is to occur. Partially self fertile varieties are likely to produce a fruit crop when no other variety is nearby but fruit production will be increased, to differing degrees, when a suitable nearby pollination partner is nearby

The definition of a &#;nearby pollination partner&#; is variable because it depends on a variety of factors including the distance between two trees, the layout of the land between them, wind strength, temperatures at the relevant time of year and many other factors. In suburban areas and many urban areas it is quite possible that there will be a suitable pollination partner within reach most years, that is the nature of British garden in those areas but nothing is guaranteed.

Bees do fly considerable distance in spring to find sources of nectar but the precise distance is variable. We will stick our necks out and say that a suitable pollination partner within a quarter of a mile is likely to be sufficient but only personal experience can prove this in your particular garden / allotment. A distance of two miles is also often sufficient but far less reliable.

The detailed description of every one of the varieties described below contains a list of suitable pollination partners.

BETH

POLLINATION: Self sterile (see main article for pollination partners)

TASTE AND TEXTURE: Sweet, juicy, smooth.

REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Very regular.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Sweetest Pear Type. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

SPECIAL FEATURES: Regularly produces an early season crop of tasty pears.

The Beth pear tree can be summed up in two key phrases, early in the year to fruit and a superb flavour. It might not be your choice for the first pear tree you buy but it must come high on the list for a second pear tree. Most pear trees produce fruit in October but Beth reliably fruits in early September &#;. Click here for the full article on the Beth pear tree.

BEURRE BOSC

POLLINATION: Self sterile (see main article for pollination partners)

TASTE AND TEXTURE: Soft and buttery, lots of russet skin

REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Regular, good crop.

SPECIAL FEATURES: None

The Beurre Bosc pear variety produces very tasty pears which can be somewhat variable in texture. When grown in the UK against a sunny wall the texture is soft and melting. In cooler situations the pear becomes slightly crisper but eminently eatable. Although preferring warm conditions it &#;.. Click here for the full article on the Beurre Bosc pear tree.

CONCORDE

POLLINATION: Self-fertile but does even better with a suitable pollination partner (see main article for pollination partners)

TASTE AND TEXTURE: A full pear flavour and aroma. The texture is smooth with a slight crispness. Lots of juice. Overall excellent.

REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Regular, good crop.

SPECIAL FEATURES: One of the few recently bred pear trees that are available commercially. Easy to grow, tolerant of soil conditions, ideal for the beginner. Produces fruit early in its life.

This relatively new variety takes much of the excellent taste characteristics of Doyenne Du Comice and combines them with the regular and vigorous cropping features of Conference. Although classified as self-fertile there is no doubt that Concorde benefits greatly from a suitable nearby pollinating partner &#;.. Click here for the full article on the Concorde pear tree.

CONFERENCE

POLLINATION: Self-fertile but does even better with a suitable pollination (see main article for pollination partners)

TASTE AND TEXTURE: Sweet and soft when ripe.

REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Regular and crops well.

SPECIAL FEATURES: An excellent all-rounder for growing in the UK. Will produce a crop on its own.

It is the most widely grown pear tree variety in the UK because of its cropping reliability, good disease resistance and self-fertility. Taste and texture are also good. &#;.. Click here for the full article on the Conference pear tree.

DOYENNE DU COMICE

POLLINATION: Self sterile (see main article for pollination partners)

TASTE AND TEXTURE: Sweet, deep pear flavour, soft and melting texture

REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Good

SPECIAL FEATURES: Top quality taste and texture.

If you want a slice of pear tree history but at the same time want top quality eating pears then Doyenne du Comice should be top on your list. It is a typical French style pear with fruits that almost melt in your mouth. The flavour is everything you could want from a pear, sweet but full of real fruit flavour  &#;.. Click here for the full article on the Doyenne du Comice pear tree.

GORHAM

POLLINATION: Partially self-fertile (see main article for pollination partners)

TASTE AND TEXTURE: Sweet juicy and smooth texture

REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Regular with good crops

SPECIAL FEATURES: As good as Williams Bon Chretien but with better disease resistance.

A highly under-rated variety of pear, Gorham is, in reality, an &#;improved&#; version of the Williams / Bartlett pear. The flavour of the two varieties is almost indistinguishable but what makes Gorham stand out is its high resistance to scab. It also has good resistance to mildew &#;.. Click here for the full article on the Gorham pear tree.

PERRY PEAR TREES

Perry pear trees are growing in popularity as more and more people brew their own alcoholic drinks. It&#;s far easier and quicker to make pear cider (more correctly known as  Perry) than wine. Perry is simple the juice of pears turned into an alcoholic drink in a similar way as cider. To recommend one pear tree for this purpose is almost impossible because they do &#;.. Click here for the full article dedicated to popular Perry pear tree varieties available in the UK.

WILLIAMS BON CHRETIEN

POLLINATION: Self-fertile but does even better with a suitable pollination partner (see main article for pollination partners)

TASTE AND TEXTURE: Sweet juicy and smooth texture

REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Regular with good crops

SPECIAL FEATURES: An excellent all-rounder for eating and cooking.

The taste of Williams Bon Chretien pears is, overall, sweet but there is a background hint of acidity. There is a slight musk element in the aroma. The flesh is juicy and soft when ripe. One benefit of Williams pears is that they cook very well. The majority of the world production of tinned pears are of the Williams variety.  &#;.. Click here for the full article on the Williams Bon Chretien pear tree.

WINTER NELIS

POLLINATION: self-sterile (see main article for pollination partners)

TASTE AND TEXTURE: Sweet and juicy with fine texture.

REGULARITY OF CROPPING: Good regularity.

SPECIAL FEATURES: Excellent storage properties, can be eaten well into January

Winter Nelis, when grown in the UK, is the best of the winter pears overall. When picked in October it has the ability to be stored into January. Because the weather has started to turn cooler in October no special storage facilities are required other than a garage or shed.  &#;.. Click here for the full article on the Winter Nelis pear tree.

TOP THREE PEAR VARIETIES FOR THE UK

We have selected the three varieties of pear tree below not only because they are excellent in their own right but they will also be excellent pollination partners and produce pears over a relatively long period of time.

Our choice for early pears would be Beth, then mid-season would be Concorde and finally for later in the season Winter Nelis. These three varieties should provide you with eating pears over a two month period and if you store Winter Nelis correctly you may well extend that by a month or more.

Want more information on Is Pear Good for Ckd Patients? Feel free to contact us.