Modern and traditional types of wood wall paneling

Exclusively available from The Wood Veneer Hub, the range comprises both rustic and contemporary finishes, along with colorful options too. With all these different combinations to choose from, it&#;s no surprise that Slatpanel® is by far the most popular wooden wall paneling on offer!

With competitive price and timely delivery, SUNSONG sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

To assist you in your decision making on which type of wooden wall paneling is right for you, we have listed the most commonly asked questions below:

How easy is wood wall paneling to install?

At The Wood Veneer Hub, we always aim to make the installation process as simple as possible. Along with step-by-step &#;how to install&#; videos, which are bespoke to each product, any competent DIYer should find fitting a relatively easy process, and the majority of the tools required to complete the job can be found in a standard toolbox.

Does the wall need any preparation, prior to fitting?

As long as the walls&#; surface is sound, with minimal hairline cracks, there is no need to fill, sand or prepare the wall prior to installation. Loose plaster and holes or larger cracks will require some attention prior to fitting, but in the main, very little preparatory work is required.

How high should the wall paneling be fitted to?

This is purely down to personal choice, and whilst some people opt to create a low level section on their walls, or panel behind a bed to create a bedhead, the majority choose to create a feature from floor to ceiling.

Single walls and even sections of a wall can look extremely effective, as can an entire room fitted in wooden wall paneling &#; ultimately the choice is yours!

Is wood paneling more expensive than wallpapering?

The cost of a roll of wallpaper varies immensely, from budget options to luxurious hand printed designs that command an equally high price tag! However, wallpapering is an art in itself, using requiring the services of a professional decorator, whereas wood wall paneling can frequently be fitted by a competent DIYer, offsetting the cost of the product against the labor required to fit the product.

Coupled with the thermal insulative properties that most wooden paneling offer, in the long run wooden wall paneling may actually be the more cost effective solution!

Is wall paneling only suitable for period homes?

With so many contemporary wall paneling designs available, the majority of wall panels that we supply are fitted in newer homes and modern office spaces, where an injection of character is required in the room.

Can I customize my wall paneling? 

The majority of products that The Wood Veneer Hub supplies are supplied ready to install, with no requirements to retrospectively stain, wax or paint. Orac® Décor is the exception, and whilst it does not need to be painted once installed, the charm of this product is that it can be customized.

Are there any rooms in my home that wood wall paneling can't be used? 

Unless the panels are likely to come into direct or prolonged contact with water, such as in a shower enclosure, then wood wall paneling can be used in almost every interior space and even on ceilings!

Wood wall paneling has been the discerning choice for so many homes, cladding walls through the ages and appearing in stately homes and even palaces, and whilst these historical styles remain iconic of their era, they have evolved into the many modern designs of wall paneling we see today.

1. Research

When planning to build your wall panel, there are two aspects to consider - When was your residence built? And in which room will the panel be placed? This is crucial for the design language and the design of your wooden panel. You can read more about panels and carpentry under the section Style History or in the book "Tidstypiskt". In the last century, the rooms that had the most visitors, such as a entrance, drawing room, and dining room, had the most decorated woodwork. Bedrooms and kitchens were furnished much more simply, in kitchens, for example, the walls were often covered in beadboard for practical reasons.

- s
During this period, paneling of various heights and designs were used depending on the function of the room. In the dining room and entrance, the highest panel with heavily profiled fillings and a finishing narrow shelf for decorative items were placed. The shapes of the panels varied, but it was not uncommon to mix both square and rectangular forms. You can find inspiration here.

- s
Like previous decades, the walls of drawing rooms and dining rooms were adorned with panels of varying heights. They were often made of oak or grain-painted in oak imitation. However, the panels move towards a lighter color scheme and can be painted in a off-white or a light gray color. The design becomes somewhat simpler with softer profiles, and the panels were usually placed closely together as well as elongated. You can find inspiration here.

- s
In environments like dining rooms, there were still a desire to adorn the walls with panels, but instead of the high, heavily profiled ones, the trend shifted to a lower wainscot. This type of panel usually aligns with the windowsill (about 75-80 cm). The panels were usually rectangular and could be combined in both horizontal and vertical formats, it was also common for the corners to be rounded. The panel were finished with a profiled crown molding. You can find inspiration here.

- s
The earlier wainscots were still present in a very simple execution but began to be replaced by lower, narrower baseboards with a simple profile in classicist design. You can find inspiration here.

2. Material

Measure the room carefully to plan the material purchase for your wall panel, considering windows, doors, and special angles. The size of the room determines the size of the panels, following the principle that there should be an equal amount of smooth surface above and below the panel as well as on the sides.

- Start with the MDF board, which should be mounted directly on the wall. They are cut straight and therefore do not require any extra waste. You can therefor purchase almost th exact number of meters as the circumference of the room (subtract doors and windows).

- After that comes the planed timber, which will form the actual framework and is the structure for the panel. Depending on how many panels you plan for your wall paneling, it might be wise to add about 10% for waste. You will need material for both horizontal and vertical pieces.

- Finally, there is the profiled moldings. The amount of baseboard and crown molding will, like the MDF, consist of the room's circumference; add extra timber (about 10%) to account for corner cuts, etc. The decorative moldings that will be placed in the panels as fillings always require more than one might think, as many cuts can go wrong. Here we recommend adding about 25% waste to the number of meters.

3. Assembly

Start by removing the existing baseboard and ensure you have as clean a wall as possible to work with.

- The MDF is mounted flush against the wall, which will form the base of your panel. We recommend using construction adhesive to attach the board material and then screwing or nailing it into the wall depending on the wall material.

- Now you have a smooth surface and can start mounting the baseboard. We have chosen a three-piece baseboard, but it's optional, just make sure that the top edge of the baseboard is wide enough so that the planed timber can be attached above it without any overhang. The crown molding is mounted at the top along the upper edge of the MDF. Now you will have a good base with a bottom and a top. Use wood glue and nails to attach these. Note! If you use a three-piece baseboard, only attach the bottom baseboard and the crown molding; the middle board needs to be able to move a bit, it is held in place by the other moldings.

- The next step is to mount the planed timber, which will form the actual framework of your paneling. These are to allow the fillings to "sink" into the panel. Start by mounting the horizontal parts, the timber closest to the baseboard, and then the timber closest to the crown molding. After that, mount the vertical parts, this is a perfectt opportunity to fine-tune the dimensions of the panels so that they are evenly distributed throughout the room. We recommend using wood glue and reinforcing with nails.

- After adjusting and double-checking all the dimensions of the framework, it's time to start cutting the decorative moldings. You need two short sides and two long sides per panel, and all parts needs to be cut at a 45-degree angle at each end. Once you have cut all the moldings, attach them to the inside of the panels with wood glue and small nails. Remember to use a nail setter to avoid damaging the profile of the decorative molding when nailing.

For more pillar panelinginformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

4.Priming & Finishing

Your wall panel is now complete, only the finishing touches left!

- Begin by filling all the joints in the framework, the corners of the panels, and over the small nail heads with wood filler.

- If the timber have knots, we recommend treating these with shellac.

- Once the shellac has dried, it's time to prime your panel. This is an important step to achieve an even surface, as different types of materials have been used. If you want to paint your panel with linseed oil paint, we recommend white primer.

- The final step is to paint your panel with a paint of your choice, usually two coats are sufficient. Read more about period-appropriate color schemes here and choose from our wide range of linseed oil paints.

Here's what you'll need:

- MDF

• Planed timber
• Decorative moldings
• Crown molding
• Baseboard
• Miter saw
• Tape measure
• Spirit level or laser measure
• Screwdriver
• Hammer
• Screws/Nails
• Nail set
• Wood glue
• Construction adhesive
• Fine wood filler
• Putty knife
• Sandpaper
• Shellac
• Primer
• Finish paint

Are you interested in learning more about gold satin finish? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!