Hi strippies! If you&#;re just joining the blog, welcome &#; this part of my site is dedicated to sharing my seven and a half years of dancing experience and knowledge with you. So, today&#;s topic is for the very baby stripper or maybe even a wannabe stripper, what are the qualifications for stripping? What do you need to be a good stripper and make money? What are the requirements to work in the club? All this is covered and more in today&#;s post below!
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Quick story: My first day I considered dancing I was talking to a girl who had already been dancing for a couple years. The biggest question I asked her was about my body type. I have an athletic build, I&#;m not very curvy, I don&#;t have big boobs and I was pretty skinny. I was worried that since I didn&#;t look like the ideal feminine aesthetic that I wouldn&#;t get hired or make any money. She looked me straight in the eye and said to all my concerns that they were completely irrelevant. But that I needed to just have confidence in myself.
Now I know what you&#;re thinking, &#;That sounds great and everything but then what? Have confidence and that&#;s it?&#; No. I just wanted to put out the disclaimer that any body type can work in this industry and that shouldn&#;t stop you from trying to unleash your inner stripper.
All right, down to business &#; below are a few things that you should really take into consideration as being the minimum qualifications to get hired and be a dancer. It&#;s a quick list, some have explanations and others do not (if you do have questions leave a comment below).
1. If you&#;re dancing in the US, you will need to be a US citizen who is over the age of 18 (over 21 at some clubs). You will need to provide proof that you are a citizen and you have to have some forms of identification. In some cities, you even have to get a license and/or fingerprinted to be allowed to work.
2. You need to be able to work when the club is open. Most clubs are open all day and most of the night but some are just open at night. Make sure obviously that you can work the hours.
3. Personal hygiene is a must! You are making money with your body - it&#;s like your instrument or tool, you have to keep in clean and tidy so that you can work more efficiently and so that you will get hired in the first place.
4. This is a superficial business so you will need to make sure that you can look the part. Now I&#;m not saying become like a Barbie doll but don&#;t show up to audition at the club or to work looking like a hot mess. You can still have your personal style without sacrificing just great beauty techniques and glamorization.
5. You must be shaved or waxed. You can have a landing strip or maybe some sort of shape but everything else needs to be hairless. You can expect your clients for the most part to have big problems with body hair. Of course, there are exceptions but this one is pretty standard across the industry.
6. You must be savvy. This means careful with your money and the ability to do basic math. You should be able to charge appropriately for your dances and time.
7. Having an engaging personality is a big requirement.
8. You must be able to do the job sober. If you have to get plastered drunk every night you work or be drunk before you show up, this job is not for you. I am saying that the first few times you can have liquid courage but if it is an absolute necessity then stop.
9. You shouldn&#;t be addicted to drugs. Stripping will only exasperate a drug abuse problem. Seek treatment for your addiction first and then start dancing. It can be a rabbit hole if you struggle with this illness.
10. Speaking of illnesses &#; do not have any sort of transmittable disease. I&#;m mostly talking about scabies and other active skin viruses like shingles. These will transmit to your co-workers and I have even heard of clubs getting shut down because of this.
11. Try to be as current as possible on the news and other worldly events. It&#;s only cute the first time a client sees you to be a moron. If you want regular clientele you need to be able to talk about anything, I really do mean anything.
12. Know when to shut up. Sometimes they want you to just sit there or dance. Know which type of client you are dancing for.
13. Understand that you are in the SERVICE industry. Yes, clients can be assholes but they are like that with any industry. It won&#;t suit you to get up on a high horse and lecture a client. He won&#;t come back and you won&#;t make any money.
14. Have etiquette. You should know basic shit like how to open a champagne bottle, how to sit up straight, introduce yourself and be kind. If you show up trashy you won&#;t be able to keep clients for very long and usually the club will get tired of your shenanigans and find a reason to fire you. (Extra plus: if you know a little about wine, food pairings and other rich people shit). Google etiquette and watch some tutorials if you want to attract the top 1% of clientele.
15. Keep up appearances. Don&#;t let yourself go after you have the job or the club can fire you.
16. Have thick skin. Don&#;t let the shit at the club impact who you are outside of the club.
17. Leave your problems at the door. No-one really wants to hear your ex-bf drama, leave it at the door and focus on work.
18. Establish your boundaries.
19. Be confident in your body. You do not need to get plastic surgery to become a dancer. In fact, some clients like all-natural bodies and hate plastic surgery so just do what you want. I never got plastic surgery and never felt that I needed to.
20. You need to be naturally outgoing. I&#;m not saying extroverted but if you are a hardcore introvert with social anxiety, this job is definitely not for you.
21. Have a reliable way to get to and from work. No-one at the club will look after you and give you rides every night.
That&#;s pretty much it. Barrier to entry is very low when it comes to dancing. Your first night or first few months you will want to get a pair of shoes. I always joked that all you really need are shoes and a T-back!
Want to know more? Click below:
Whether you are stripping paint from a small section of your classic car or removing paint from the whole car all at once, below is the complete guide to the most popular automotive paint stripping methods out there so you can choose what&#;s best for your car.
Some methods are low budget DIY and some are expensive. For example, drop-your-car-off-and-have-it-done-for-you solutions or dipping solutions, ha ha. Seriously, you can dip your car too.
Best Chemical Paint Stripper
Automotive paint strippers aren&#;t as good as they once were due to EPA and safety regulations. One key ingredient, Methylene Chloride, has been banned for use in paint strippers.
I found that these products still work, but they take much longer to eat into the paint. Here&#;s the industrial one that I prefer:
Paint Stripper for CarsBuy On Amazon
About $50/Gallon
Plan on using one or more gallons of the paint stripper above to strip an entire car.
Before the product above, I used aircraft stripper from Klean-Strip. Their new formulation is not impressive in my opinion, but if you want to try I suggest you buy a quart or pint size first.
Also check with your local or online automotive paint supplier for full strength paint stripper with MEK. Apparently some states still offer stronger solutions, but you won&#;t find them in retail big-box stores.
Chemical Paint Strip Procedure
- Best to scratch paint surface with 80 Grit Sandpaper
- Cover seams or gaps with masking tape
- Pour chemical paint stripper onto horizontal surfaces and cover with plastic
- Brush chemical paint stripper onto vertical surfaces.
- Brush on heavy and in one direction only.
- Wait 20 or more minutes after bubbling appears to stop.
- Scrape paint off with metal or plastic scraper tool
- Re-apply to attack multiple layers of paint
- Neutralize with denatured alcohol or soap and water
- Epoxy prime same day (follow primer directions, but most need 80 Grit DA sand).
Do NOT use the method above for fiberglass or plastic parts. The stripper can damage the gel coat and the epoxy resin that creates the fiberglass structure. If you are working with fiberglass or plastic, skip to the mechanical or blasting methods below.
It&#;s important not to mess with the chemical once it&#;s applied to the surface. I find that the chemical works best in areas that I poured the chemical.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of pre-stripping machine. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
You want the chemical gel thickness to be about 1/8&#; which is kind of hard to do on vertical surfaces. If you plan on removing the doors anyway, it may make sense to remove them first so the stripper can work horizontally covered with a plastic sheet.
I will typically pour enough chemical in rows about 8-10&#; apart and then gently pull the chemical with a brush for even coverage. Remember not to over brush it!
Often, the paint will soften but not scrape off easily. This is where I like to combine the chemical strip method with mechanical methods, such as a surface conditioning tool or a strip-it disc. See Mechanical Methods below.
You will see in the pictures above that the hood to fender seams were taped up. This step is critical for the perfect paint job. You do not want the chemical to hide in any seams and then leak out in a few years to destroy your new paint. Do not use paint stripper on hemmed door skins or anything that may trap acids!
Chemical PROS
- Inexpensive
- Minimal dust
- EASY for horizontal surfaces
- Gentle to steel
- NO warping
Chemical CONS
- MUST be neutralized
- BAD for seams
- Slow with today&#;s product
- BAD for plastic
- BAD for fiberglass
Mechanical Paint Strip Method
Sometimes a little &#;elbow grease&#; is need to get the job done safely. Since automotive paint strippers are not as good as they used to be, a good DIY alternative is mechanical paint removal.
Luckily there have been some improvements in this area lately. Two great products now replace the heavy sandpaper option.
7&#; Strip-It Disc
Works great on low speed sander such as the Makita with a plastic backing pad.
Buy On Ebay
Surface Conditioning Tool
Designed for automotive paint removal
Buy On Amazon
Both the strip-it disc and surface conditioning tools utilize a woven abrasive medium that will not clog up like sandpaper. Both will mow through Bondo, paint, and even light surface rust. You will be left with a clean shiny surface that is ready for epoxy primer. Most primer manufactures suggest an 80 grit abraded surface and these both get close enough to that.
The price and availability of this woven material has come down substantially in recent years. The large 7-8&#; discs can be hard to find, but they are out there. Click here to buy.
I believe that the typical 4.5&#; angle grinder is a bit too fast and it will wear the woven discs out quickly. That is why I prefer the Makita sander at about RPM. One 7&#; disc will strip an entire car if you don&#;t push to hard and let the tool do the work.
I believe that the typical 4.5&#; angle grinder is a bit too fast and it will wear the woven discs out quickly. That is why I prefer the Makita sander at about RPM. One 7&#; disc will strip an entire car if you don&#;t push too hard.
As mentioned above in the chemical stripping section, I like to combine both methods. Soften the paint with paint stripper, scrape off the easy stuff and then use the mechanical method. If the paint doesn&#;t come off in large balls, then it may be time to add more stripper. Softened paint usually doesn&#;t create too much dust if done correctly. If you want to see this method in action , please click the video at the bottom of this article. This video shows me stripping my Porsche 911 in only one day.
The one limitation I have found with woven material tools, is that they don&#;t work very well on undercoating. They can clog and bog down.
Undercoating Is Tough To Remove, Try This
- Wire wheel on drill or 4.5&#; angle grinder
- Propane torch and metal scraper
- Oscillating slicer tool
Click to here to read my undercoating removal article
Mechanical PROS
- Inexpensive
- Gentle to metal
- Do at home (hire a laborer)
- Safe for seams
- Ready to epoxy prime
- Can do one panel at a time
Mechanical Cons
Media-Blasting Car Paint Removal
A lot of car enthusiasts prefer to tow their project car to a professional sandblaster. Professional blasters use very high volume airflow that is difficult to achieve at home. If you want your whole car stripped with this method, a professional outfit with quality equipment is the only way to go. Some blast businesses will come to you with a mobile blast rig.
CAUTION: The high pressure abrasive media can warp large panels like hoods or doors if not operated by a skilled blaster.
If you are concerned about warping large panels, then use either chemical or mechanical methods first for those large, easy to reach areas.
- Large Blaster
- Spot Blaster for Small Areas
Common blast materials for paint removal
- Walnut shells
- Glass beads (rust removal)
- Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)
- Sand, various grits
- Vapor (mixture of water and above media)
- Dry Ice
Depending on the paint thickness and shape of the panel several different media may be needed.
The major advantage of sandblasting is that it is great at removing rust, especially on hard to reach surfaces. If you are restoring a very rusty car it&#;s common to cut out the bad metal to expose inner cavities for the most thorough job. Often times this is for a full rotisserie restoration when the doors, hood, etc are removed for a full restoration.
If you do cut out known bad metal, then some bracing may be required so the chassis doesn&#;t flex too much and permanently distort.
Blasting PROS
- Done for you
- Great for rusty areas
- Quick
- Dry Ice (least obtrusive)
Blasting CONS
- Expensive ($2-3k for professional job)
- May warp if not careful
- Glass/Shells/Sand gets everywhere
- Must tow car to shop or have large outdoor space at home
- Must Neutralize Soda if used
Acid Dipping Paint Removal
Automotive paint stripping can be extreme! You can dip your entire car in an acid sequence too to remove paint.
Clearly this method requires that everything must be removed from your car prior to dipping. It&#;s also best to remove any plugs that may prevent the acid solution from entering hidden cavities and channels. Trapped air is one short coming of this method, so plan ahead.
Acid dipping a whole car is certainly a professional endeavor so make sure you ask lots of questions to whomever has the equipment to do the job right.
I like this methods for really rusty or thin metal cars such as the VW Beetle pictured above. The acid can remove rust too, so if you have a lot of pitted metal dipping can clean it.
You do need to ensure that the acids are neutralized properly before new paint is applied. Often this is done with high pressure water to flush away the residue and debri left behind.
I recommend heating the seams to boil any left over stuff in the spot welded seams as chemicals tend to leech out and ruin your pretty paint job. This may not happen for several years, so keep your fingers crossed.
Most dipping outfits will coat the car in a phosphate solution to prevent flash rust. Make sure that your primer manufacture says their product can be applied over a phosphated surface. Very important!
Electrolysis For Rust Removal
Another dipping method that I like is electrolysis. While it&#;s not an acid, it does involve an electrolyte solution and electricity. This method is great for small parts and the process is self limiting, meaning that once the rust if gone the process stops. Electrolysis is great for small delicate parts that you don&#;t want to abrade or texture with mechanical or blasting methods.
Dipping PROS
- Thorough Rust Removal
- Quick once car is prepped
- No Warping
Dipping CONS
- Acids can leech through future paint
- Everything must be removed
Watch this video which summarizes and highlights each of the above methods. Sometimes watching someone else work on their project can inspire you to give it a try.
Car Paint Stripping Summary
Automotive paint stripping really comes down to cost, versus, time, versus quality. What do most of the high end restoration shops use on very valuable cars?
They use either dry ice blasting and/or mechanical methods. Mechanical methods ensures great paint adhesion so if quality and reputation is important to your business or project, then you must spend the time and money to do it right.
If you are tired of working on a rusty car and you feel like there is no end in sight, then send it to a media blaster. Many guys find that outsourcing the rust removal is a major win because they feel the car is fresh and ready to build!
If you have any questions in particular please leave a comment below and I&#;ll do my best to get back to you.
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