This guide to frameless shower enclosures and shower doors was written by glass enclosure and door expert Jake Barr and Dave Brunell, owner of Pioneer Glass. We walk you through all your glass door and shower enclosure options so you can make the best decision for your specific project.
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Bathroom design has changed dramatically over the last five years. Homeowners are building much larger bathrooms and using more elaborate fixtures and tiles. For them, the purpose of the master bath has changed. Many people are looking for an oasis or spa-like bathroom that is relaxing, elegant, or crisp and airy. Others have smaller bathrooms and want to maximize the space with a sleek update. Regardless of their personal design preferences, they all want one thing: frameless shower glass. Most consumers need more knowledge about shower enclosures and doors. This article will help you make wise decisions to build your dream shower.
For more information about all shower enclosure types:
Glass Options for Frameless Shower Enclosures and Doors
The Glass: Clear or Super Clear?
This may sound simple, but there is a big difference here. Regular, clear glass has a green tint, and in a window with very thin glass, you may not even notice it. Frameless shower enclosures and doors use ⅜” and ½” glass, which maximizes the green tint and becomes quite noticeable. Super clear, low iron glass has a much cleaner look and will display your tile or marble dramatically better if you are going for a crisp and airy look. Of the customers who come in and see the difference, over 95% choose low iron glass for their enclosures despite its higher price point.
The Glass: Clear, Patterned, Obscure or a Fade?
By and large, most frameless showers use low iron or regular clear glass. However, some customers prefer a more obscure privacy glass like frosted (acid wash) or a more decorative pattern. There are generally two reasons for this. One is that they believe an obscure glass will hide any dirt and film better, resulting in less cleaning time. While that may be correct, with modern glass treatment, it’s less a factor. Second, most customers who prefer not to have see-through glass are looking for privacy. If privacy is your primary concern, be aware that in the frameless glass world, the increase in price for “specialty glass” is significant. Luckily, there is a better way to accomplish this. Modern technology allows us to now paint into the glass. If the obscuring patterned glass is too big of a price jump, we can still meet your needs by adding a privacy band or a fading privacy band.
This ensures no one can see in from the knees to the shoulders while providing a nice view of your tile and a bright, open view of your bathroom.
shower doors with privacy band
Display Showing a “Fade” Privacy Band
Untreated or Coated Glass?
There is a lot of confusion about glass treatments to help protect the glass from dulling or etching. You could choose not to buy any coating, though we’d strongly urge against that. Untreated glass will get dirtier quickly and be more challenging to clean. In addition, untreated glass will pit and fog much sooner than treated or coated glass. You can add protection in one of two ways for a reasonable amount of money. The first way is to use a pour-on treatment generally with a ten year warranty. We have had good luck with this treatment approach. However, for a similar price, you can purchase ShowerGuard, which is a coating that is fused to the surface during manufacture. We are big fans of ShowerGuard, which has a lifetime warranty for the original owner. Personally, I cannot imagine going through the time and expense of a new bathroom and not using some type of glass treatment.
Showerguard Glass
Clips or Channel or Both?
When one thinks of frameless shower enclosures, clips are the first thing that comes to mind. They are the most popular, but we are seeing a trend toward using some channels along select edges for a couple of reasons. From a practical standpoint, the channel is more watertight, but it also has the added benefit of incorporating a little bit more metal for beauty. The channel style can look particularly great with matte black hardware finishes.
Shower Enclosure Clips and Channels
Frameless Sliding Doors or Doors and Panels?
Most think of swinging doors when exploring shower door options, but there are frameless sliding shower doors as well. These are modern-style doors (sometimes called barn doors) with exposed rollers. They use strong ⅜” glass as well rather than thinner more flimsy glass found in older style sliding showers. Some can also handle a return glass panel for showers that will have two glass walls. Sliders are an attractive frameless option that may work better in smaller bathrooms where there is not enough space for a swing door. As a general rule, it is best to only install sliders on openings larger than 48″. The minimum allowed is 46″.
Frameless Sliding Shower Doors
Tub Glass
Many customers who are looking for glass for their bathtubs think they are limited to old-fashioned framed sliding doors. While these are still available, there is no reason why you cannot have sleek, frameless shower glass. Barn-type rolling frameless shower doors can work well with tubs and with a side knee wall. And who says you have to use a sliding door on a tub? Frameless doors and panels work fine as well.
Frameless tub glass with a knee-wall
Neo-Angle Showers
In smaller bathrooms, a neo-angle shower makes a lot of sense. A neo-angle shower is three or four panes of glass that are angled to create the experience of a larger shower in a relatively small corner space. Neo-angle shower enclosures work well with a frameless design with or without a headrail. Your decision to include a headrail may come down to whether you like the finishing look that a headrail projects.
Frameless Neo-Angle Shower
Frameless Neo-Angle Shower with a Headrail
Shower Screens (Stationary Panels)
Shower screens are much more popular internationally, and while they only make up a small portion of the U.S. market, they are growing in popularity. So what is a shower screen? A shower screen is an open shower enclosure that generally uses one panel to keep water inside the shower. The rest of the shower remains open, and there is no door. In larger shower enclosures there is enough space to keep the floor dry. In regular size showers it is a good rule to use a solid curb and maintain a sufficient pitch to the base. We recommend the smallest opening one should leave on a shower screen is 22″. That is also the minimum dimension of a swing door.
Large, Bold Shower Screens
Steam Showers (and steamy showers)
Real steam showers have a track on all the walls, gaskets on the door, and a transom window over the door. They are equipped with a steam generator, and while they have used as a regular shower, they are built to be your private steam room. Customers who purchase them are serious about getting the health and lifestyle benefits of true steam. Because the basic idea of calibrating the amount of steam centers on the operation of the transom vent, the u-channel track is usually used on the sides to prevent steam leakage. Some customers prefer channels and some clips for appearance. While technically not completely steam-tight, they perform well.
Steam Shower
Steamy Showers (Floor to Ceiling Glass Enclosures)
There are also what we call steamy showers. Some clients love the look of floor to ceiling glass with a transom as well as loving the feel of a super steamy shower but do not install a steam generator. They install the same basic shower design without gaskets and somewhat create a steamy shower. These bold showers make quite a statement.
Floor to Ceiling Steamy Shower
Grid Showers
When one imagines gridded shower glass the idea of metal grid work is generally what customers envision. Very few grid showers actually use metal anymore. Using the same breakthrough technology that now makes privacy bands, grids are, by and large, painted into the glass. We can also add metal strips on the outside if requested. This type of grid shower looks sleeker and is easier to clean. Ceramic in-glass printing now allows us to print any image in any color and at any level of obscurity. If you want your shower to look like an English phone booth or have a life-like image of a snow leopard it is very easy to accomplish.
Grid Showers
Larger Openings: Centered Glass, Headrail, or Supporting Arm
For larger openings over 66 inches using ⅜ inch glass or over 72 inches using ½ inch glass, a traditional door and panel may not be structurally sound. Therefore, there are limits to the size of a door that can be hung on the adjacent panel. There are ways to get that large shower installed with a slight modification
Centering The Door
By far the most popular way around this is to center the door with a panel on each side of the door. This also balances the view of the frameless door. Centering the shower door is very popular and can be aesthetically pleasing even in smaller shower openings.
Centered Panel / Door Panel
Headrails
The second option is a headrail support. While a headrail support moves away from the frameless concept, it can still be a desirable option. Also, choosing a headrail will allow for more creative design possibilities.
Shower Enclosure with Headrail
Ceiling Support Arm
The last method of supporting the glass is to use an arm. They are not the most popular option, but these supporting arms are hardly noticeable once installed. They can also be installed on the wall or ceiling.
Shower Glass with Ceiling Support
Incorporating a Bench or a Knee Wall into Frameless Shower Enclosures
Benches and knee walls are readily doable in frameless shower enclosures. Not only do they serve a practical purpose, but in many cases, they enhance the beauty of the bathroom. Many shower designs can include two knee walls and a bench. As long as the measurements are exact and the glass is precision cut, knee walls and benches are great additions to your bathroom design.
Spectacular Design Work in this Bathroom
Double Front Knee Walls
Tying in a Half Wall with Wainscoting
Hardware Finishes
The finish choices for sliding shower doors are usually limited to only three or four options. This is because sliding shower doors are specific to the original manufacturer, and the roller assembly only works on their particular showers. Frameless shower doors and panels include a wide array of finish options offered by CRL, the leader in glass hardware. CRL has 23 shower hardware finishes, so if you are particular about your hardware finish, that may be another reason to go with frameless.
CRL Hardware Finishes
Robe Hooks and Towel Bars
While most customers have more interest in handles than towel bars and robe hooks, I put these first because they are frequently overlooked. Shower glass is tempered safety glass and cannot be drilled after manufacture. Many bathrooms have readily accessible spots to place towels and robes. Yours may not. Be sure to look over the space and determine if you want robe hooks or towel bars as part of the shower enclosure before you order your shower glass.
Robe Hook Mounted Through the Glass
Handles
We will only spend a little bit of time with handles as they are readily available. I will quickly go over the most common options.
Double-Sided-C-Pull
Combo C-Pull and Towel Bar
Ladder Pull
Square Pull
Victorian Handle
Crescent Pull
Hinges and Clips
Like handles, there are many types of hinges and clips. That being said, there are two that are used on 99% of the showers. The most common is a Pinnacle hinge/clip. This has slightly rounded corners and a beveled edge. Vienna hinges and clips are used for those looking for a square look.
Pinnacle Hinges and Clips. Slightly Rounded Corners and a Bevel Edge
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Square Vienna Hinges and Clips
Mixed Metals
At one time, everyone used all the same finish colors in a bathroom. During Covid, many finishes were unavailable, and consumers had to get creative. This led to using different finishes. With supply being what it was, it turned out that almost always, one was black. Now that the supply chain is better, some customers have decided that gold or brass fixtures with black hardware are a must-have feature in a modern shower. It’s a newer look that does enhance the bathroom significantly.
Conclusion
That wraps up our guide to buying frameless shower enclosures and shower doors. There are quite a few options, however depending on your space, budget, and design preference it’s usually relatively easy to narrow down to the best options for your project. If you have any other questions, feel free to contact one of our glass enclosure professionals. We hope this guide is helpful to you.
Related links:
Grid Showers: Timeless Elegance Meets Modern Style
Privacy Glass for Showers: A Blend of Style and Intimacy
Glass Shower Screens: A Modern, Minimalist Addition to Your Bathroom
Small Bathroom Design: Neo-Angle Showers and Small Spaces
Custom Steam Showers: Transforming Bathrooms into Spas
Glass Shower Enclosures and Doors
8 Best Shower Doors and Tub Glass Options on Fiberglass & Acrylic Enclosures
If you’ve ever asked yourself “How do I know how wide my drapery panels should be?” then this post will be for you! As a decorator, I take care of this for my clients, but if you’re doing it yourself, or just want something quick in the back spare bedroom, I have all the details to help you make the best decisions.
First, a little explanation of fabric widths. Decorator fabric most often comes 54″ wide as it rolls off the bolt. It can vary from 50″ up to 58″, and some fabrics, especially sheers, can some in double width at 108″ wide. But the standard in the U.S. is 54″. So, if you think about a regular size window which is 30″-36″ wide, one width of fabric is only 20 or so inches wider than the window.
Please note that the illustrations above don’t take seaming and side hems into account, which reduces all widths by several inches. For instance, standard store bought drapery panels are usually 48″ wide – which is a 54″ wide piece of fabric, less 2″ of seams on each side.
Here are some examples of various width panels that I’ve used in my design projects. The above and below photos show my own bedroom. My windows are fairly small at 34″ wide (including frame). In addition, the window on the left butts up against the side wall. So, without wanting to cover up too much of the window opening, I opted for single width panels, which have a finished width of 48″. Generally, designer quality drapery treatments are at least 1.5 widths per panel (72″ finished width) or 2 widths (98″ finished width). But for smaller windows and especially ones that butt against a wall, a single width is fine. These panels are also lined, which adds bulk to their shape. If they were unlined, they’d look very small on the window. For extra fullness, custom panels can also be interlined. I don’t draw my curtains closed and have the sheers layered underneath to soften the view of the street. There are also blinds for use at night.
The custom panels I had made for the client above and below, we did 1.5 width panels in the dining area. There were two windows in the dining area of the space, and the longer bank of windows (below) in the living area. Oh, sorry about these photos, I’ve only taken iPhone pictures and didn’t do a great job, but they are fine for this illustration. This again shows windows that butt closely up agains the side walls, so we couldn’t mount them totally off the windows either. But, given the ceiling heights and scale of the room, single panels would be way too small. So, 1.5 width panels (72″ finished width at hem) worked well on the dining room windows. They are full and luxurious looking. For the larger window below, we didn’t want or need drapery to span the entire window, we just wanted side panels to soften things up. These are double width pinch pleat drapery panels which can be pushed aside or pulled to close off the two side windows, of wanted.
For the client project below, there was also a mix of fabric widths. The single window features 1.5 width panels on the single window (which are lined and interlined because the fabric was silk) and the bay window had a mix of single width and 1.5 width panels. This level of customization is what comes with bespoke products.
Below, I’ve created a series of illustrations of how the various widths look on standard single and double windows. Please note that these illustrate the concept for panels that are lined and interlined for fullness.
One of the points I wanted to make with the illustrations above is that the proper mounting of window treatments is to allow as much of the window to show so as not to block the light. The proper placement of the treatments will make a small window look much bigger and more in scale. Now, when it comes to pre-made panels, I again note that they are usually single width 48″ wide and are often unlined – though some better stores sell them lined. Lining not only protects the fabric from sunlight, it adds fullness and drape to the whole treatment. More recently I noticed that some ready made panels are only 30″ wide which should be avoided entirely.
Take a look at the images below. These are from a google search of “drapery panels”. Most are typical 48″ wide panels, some are wider, or they are ganged together so there are more than one panel per side. But in all cases, they are covering the windows. The styling makes these panels look nice and wide, but it only appears that way. If you pushed them to the side so you can actually see out the window – they will suddenly be very narrow.
Doubling up panels on each side is an excellent way of “bulking” up the look without going custom. The images below both show a attractive way to double up the side panels for a nice level of fullness and also a mixing of patterns for interest. There are other issues with store bought panels when it comes to matching clear patterns (as opposed to solid or striped fabrics). I offered some tips on this post on pattern matching which you might find helpful.
Get a similar look here, here and here.
These photos also are still styled to be covering up most of the windows. But they also show a more honest representation of the actual real-world widths of the individual panels. If you imagine how these panels would look if you removed two on each side, you’ll see just how narrow they really are.
This image above is a pretty good representation of the actual width of single width drapery panels. It’s fine if you’re just looking for a a little splash of color, but this is a narrowly focused image. If we panned back and looked at the window straight on within the scale of the entire room, it would probably look pretty dinky.
Drapery panels add beauty and color to a space. They can make small windows appear larger or low windows appear higher (there will be a separate post about how high to hang drapery treatments coming soon!). They can block the sun and heat, keep out the cold and also frame a beautiful view. Not all panels are equal and the best results come from proper planning and understanding the various widths available. Obviously, unlined single-width panels are much more budget friendly than are 2.5 width lined and interlined drapery panels can be – but there is nothing like the finished look of a beautiful full drape.
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Your questions answered:
March 23, 2023 – Fish Hatchery Road asked: How do you decide how far out to place your rods? 34″ window, have two 50″ panels, plenty of room on either side to extend the rod. I think “more” is better, but obviously there is a point at which “more” is too much, but what point? My rod can be 66″ to 120″. Would 12″ of extra on either side be too much? I can’t find a straightforward answer anywhere, just “suggestions” of 4″-10″… Help!
Hi! Thanks for your question. If your rod is 66″ wide then you would have 16″ on each side of a 34″ window. I’m showing above both a 58″ rod (34+12+12) and 66″ rod (34+16+16). (By the way – I am assuming your window measurement includes the trim not just the glass?) I think 12″ on each side would be somewhat better than 16″ because the drapery will be fuller both when pulled to the sides and when closed over the window. Two 50″ panels is 100″ of fabric. Ideally- drapery should be at least double the width of the window. But if your rod can only do 66″ then I think it’s still fine – slightly less full but not egregiously so as you can see in the illustrations. I hope this helps!
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