Upgrade mechanical fan vs installing electric fan

For a streeter, I'm with TB
The mechanical fan really only has to work below 30/35 mph; after that ram-air eases the load, and eventually takes over. So then,during ram-air cooling, and with a thermostatic clutch,the fan goes along for a free ride. Set your coolant thermostat up to maintain a minimum operating temperature, and the fan to to set the maximum, and give the carb fresh cold air, and your troubles will be over. Set it and forget it.
Because the thermostatic clutch does such a great job, I stuck an all-steel, 7-blade, high-attack, fan on the Milodon hi-flow pump, and that was about .
So ok, it costs me a little power below 35 mph, so what; this is like rpm in first and there is probably 150/200hp I can't use anyway cuz it just spins the tires. When I hit 60mph and stick it into second gear, she is well into ram-air,so the fan while freewheeling is being driven by ram-air and viscous coupling, doing nothing.
Driving in traffic I never feel the T-clutch cycling. But on occasion I hear it. But then, my engine is set up to maintain a minimum coolant temp of 205

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The air speed across the radiator is quite a bit less than you might think unless you've done a lot of work on post-radiator ducting. I've seen fans (and shroud) make a significant difference at 75 mph. Just for fun, put a strong fan in front of your car and then try to spray water into the grille from a few feet away. Most of the air goes around the car. You need those fans.

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If you run without a shroud, then your fans will either pull air from around the edge of the fan (doing nobody any good whatsoever) or they'll only pull through the part of the core directly in front of the fan. That means about 50% of your core (or less) will not be seeing airflow from the fans.

My BMW has a shrouded pusher on the AC condenser, but it's got bypass flaps on it as well so they can open up if there's more pressure on the wrong side of the shroud. We do the same on our puller shrouds.

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