What's your favorite cutter for edge banding?

When working with wood edge banding, it's crucial to understand that you are essentially planing wood. Always remember to trim or plane the grain downhill. Assessing the grain prior to trimming is essential. You may trim both sides consistently in the same direction, or at times, require different approaches for each side. There are instances where you might need to alternate directions for each side.

Through my experience, the best outcomes come from making two passes: the first pass removes the bulk of the waste while the second pass takes care of the remaining wood and any glue squeeze-out. After one or two passes with a sander, a slight bevel forms, which significantly aids in preventing the edge banding from lifting. This beveled edge also allows any sprayed finish to flow and seal more effectively. After using the Guillotine trimmer, I apply a slight bevel to the ends using a 150-grit sanding block. Be prepared to discard some banding, particularly around joints or sections with gnarly grain. Again, completing two cuts yields superior results compared to a single cut.

When it comes to ironing the banding, I recommend using a clothing iron set at its maximum temperature. First, I heat the panel edge, which allows the banding glue to grip better. Then, I proceed to heat the entire strip, moving the iron back and forth until the wood feels hot to the touch. Following that, I use a small diameter rod, positioned at a slight angle, to smooth the banding back and forth until the glue sets. A scraper burnisher works well for this purpose, but a large round screwdriver can suffice too. I wait for the glue to cool completely before trimming the banding. This method ensures that 99% of the glue comes off effectively during the trimming process.

In my experience, I prefer not to use SANUR banding; instead, I source mine from Edgeco as I find their glue to be superior.

For edge banding, I utilize the Fastcap Pro double bidirectional side squeeze adjustable width. I once purchased the yellow tool that Klingspor sells but ultimately discarded it.

The Fastcap edge band sander has proven invaluable. Sanding a slight bevel not only eases the finishing process but also helps in preventing the banding from lifting.

Lastly, I employ the Guillotine trimmer for the ends, which I purchased from Amazon.

I have accomplished hundreds of feet of glue application on edge banding using these three tools. They are highly effective for melamine, as well as finished and unfinished wood. The critical point to keep in mind when trimming wood edge banding is that it involves planing wood, and it's paramount to always work with the grain.

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A good quality bastard file is handy, particularly with a tooth on one edge, especially when dealing with wood veneer edge banding. Proper technique is key—it is easier to demonstrate in video form, but the fundamental technique involves positioning the file at a 5-10 degree angle to the substrate. Employ a forward cutting motion (never backward) to eliminate excess banding. Cutting during the backstroke can inadvertently pull the edging off or splinter it towards the newly edged side.

I allow the glue to cool completely before trimming to avoid spreading any squeeze-out across the surface. After applying the ironed tape, I press a small block of hard maple against it and gently roll the edges to ensure proper adhesion.

In my experience, tools like chisels, Vertex, razor blades, and extended Olfa knives do not provide the same clean and efficient results as a file, particularly on veneered wood. I finish the process with 220 grit sandpaper on a block or a piece of wood at a 10 or 15-degree angle to the substrate followed by a bit of lacquer or clear finish on the exposed edge. When necessary, I carefully utilize a razor to remove any glue, however, in most cases, the file takes care of it, and minimal glue lands on the surface.

Continuous practice is key to improvement, and the effort is worthwhile.

Tim

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